A Long-Awaited Return to Oslo: A Look at What’s New in 2021

I’m thrilled to have a trip to Oslo on my calendar for this month. It’s the first time I’m back since the summer of 2019, and it’s a rare visit back in a season other than summer. Might I get some snow or even catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights? Both have made an appearance in Oslo already this fall. My highest priority will be spending time with my parents and family, but I do hope to explore some of what’s new in Oslo since my last visit also. There is plenty!

MUNCH

Photo by Einar Aslaksen / Munchmuseet

Top of my wishlist is a visit to MUNCH, the new Munch museum in the Bjørvika harbor area of Oslo dedicated to the Norwegian artist Edvard Munch. It opened less than a month ago, and social media and news have been abuzz with the excitement of the long awaited opening. It’s been a work-in-progress since 2008. I’m intrigued by the architecture and location and eager to see it in person. Luckily, my father was quick to become a MUNCH member and has already secured tickets for a visit while I’m there. 😱

Diechman Bjørvika

Photo credit: Deichman Bjørvika

Bjørvika is not only home to the new MUNCH museum but also the new main public library Diechman Bjørvika (opened in March 2020) with its similarly striking architecture and an award-winning interior. In addition to extensive book collections, a movie theater, media workshops, gaming zones, lounges, work areas, a cafe, and a restaurant, it is home to the manuscripts of the Future Library, which will remain unpublished until 2114. Diechman Bjørvika was just named the best library in the world. Another must-see for me.

The Rose Castle

Photo by Sandbox / Roseslottet

Also on my list of Oslo must-sees for this visit is Roseslottet, or the Rose Castle, at Frognerseteren which opened in 2020. It is a large-scale art installation that commemorates 80 years since the German attack on Norway in 1940 and the 75th anniversary of Norway’s liberation in 1945. It “aims to tell the story of the German occupation of Norway and the basic principles of democracy, rule of law, and humanism that were then put out of force.” It is on display until December 31, 2022. Since it is higher up in elevation, this might be my chance to experience some snow while home.

National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design

Photo by Borre Hostland / Nasjonalmuseet

Another recent addition to the museum scene in Oslo is the new National Museum (Nasjonalmuseet) by Rådhusplassen/Akerbrygge opening June 11, 2022. It will be the largest art museum in the Nordic countries. I may not be able to view the exhibits quite yet, but the museum’s unique architectural characteristics will be admired, in particular The Light Hall which definitely stands out in the cityscape.

Oslo is a constantly evolving city and I’m impressed with how much has changed in the last several years. The pandemic doesn’t seem to have slowed it down, and I’m eagerly awaiting my return home to see what’s new.

Are you a first time visitor to Oslo? See my original page Oslo Activities and Attractions and my follow-up post The New and Less Traveled Oslo for suggestions of what to see when visiting Oslo and then add and substitute as you see fit. I’d love to hear what’s on your wishlist to see in Oslo.

A Glimpse of Oslo: A Picasso Mural

Oslo_Fiskerne_Picasso_NesjarMy husband and I were leisurely making our way by foot from the food hall Mathallen to the center of town to take the metro back home. I wasn’t very familiar with this part of Oslo. Suddenly, we found ourselves in the area pictured above. I didn’t know anything about it but thought the view worthy of a picture before moving on.

Once back in the States several weeks later and catching up on back issues of the Norwegian American Weekly newspaper, I suddenly saw a photo of the mural we’d seen on our walk. I quickly searched through my photos from the summer to look more closely at it.

The article was about the Norwegian artist Carl Nesjar who as it turns out had created the mural in 1970 based on a design by Pablo Picasso. Nesjar had passed away at the age of 94 on May 23, 2015. The mural is called “Fiskerne” (The Fishermen) and is on a government building known as the Y Block. (The church to the left is Trefoldighetskirken, or The Trinity Church, consecrated in 1858.) And now I understand why the street was blocked off and I could cross it so easily to take my picture—it was the government quarter targeted in the July 22, 2011, bombings. The Y Block along with the H Block next to it sustained heavy damage in the bombing.

As I learned from the Norwegian American Weekly July 3 article, Nesjar “was for many years Picasso’s chosen fabricator, the artist who took the master’s drawings and models and gave them physical form as immense public sculptures.” Nesjar and Picasso began working together in the 1950s and continued until Picasso’s death in 1973. Their collaboration resulted in many sculptures and building decorations around the world: Norway, Sweden, France, Spain, Israel, The Netherlands, and various university campuses in the USA (Princeton, MIT, and NYU).

There is another Picasso-designed, Nesjar-created mural called “Måken” (The Seagull) in the reception area of the Y Block. Sadly, the future of these Picasso/Nesjar murals is uncertain. There are discussions to demolish the building as part of a redevelopment plan for the government quarter. The murals would be secured and preserved, but there were no plans for them beyond that. There is public debate about the issue so we’ll see what eventually happens.

I wish I knew all this when we passed through the area this summer. I would have spent a little more time looking at the mural and taking it all in. I’m very grateful for coming across the article in the Norwegian American Weekly and having the chance to research Nesjar a little bit more. Now I have a much greater appreciation for that area for the next time we pass through.